Hydroxyethyl urea (HEU, CAS 1320-51-0) has become a go-to humectant in modern personal care — a mild, low-irritation moisturizer that delivers lasting hydration without the sticky feel of glycerin. This guide covers how HEU works in cosmetics, where it is used, and how to formulate with it.
1. Why HEU in Personal Care
Hydroxyethyl urea is a urea derivative (HOCH2CH2-NH-CONH2) that acts as a humectant — attracting and holding moisture in the skin and hair. Formulators choose it for three reasons:
- Mild and low-irritation: gentler than raw urea at effective doses, suitable for sensitive-skin products.
- Non-sticky feel: delivers hydration with a light, silky after-feel, unlike glycerin at high doses.
- Broad compatibility: works in creams, lotions, gels, serums and rinse-off products.
2. Key Applications
2.1 Skincare
HEU is used in moisturizers, serums, facial creams and body lotions as a primary or secondary humectant, complementing glycerin, hyaluronic acid and other moisturizers.
2.2 Haircare
In conditioners, masks and leave-in treatments, HEU adds moisture and improves manageability without weighing hair down.
2.3 Other personal care
- Body wash and shower gels (rinse-off humectant)
- Sun care and after-sun products
- Sensitive-skin and baby care formulations
3. Typical Use Levels
| Application | Typical level |
|---|---|
| Skincare moisturizers | 1-5% |
| Hair conditioners | 1-3% |
| Body wash | 1-3% |
| Serums/essences | 2-5% |
Optimum level depends on the formula; start low and adjust by sensory and moisturization testing.
4. Formulation Tips
- HEU is water-soluble — add to the water phase.
- It is compatible with oils, emulsifiers and other humectants (glycerin, propanediol, hyaluronic acid).
- Verify pH compatibility of your system (HEU is mild, near-neutral).
- Use cosmetic-grade HEU with verified purity and heavy metals on the COA.
5. FAQ
Is hydroxyethyl urea safe for skin?
Yes — it is known for its mild, low-irritation profile and is widely used in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.
How is HEU different from urea?
HEU is a hydroxyethyl derivative with a lighter feel and lower irritation potential at comparable humectant levels.
Can I replace glycerin with HEU?
Partially — HEU gives a less sticky feel, but glycerin is a stronger humectant per gram; many formulas use both.
What grade should I buy?
Cosmetic grade (INCI: hydroxyethyl urea) with controlled purity and heavy metals; verify the COA.
6. References and Further Reading
- Cosmetic ingredient literature (INCI: hydroxyethyl urea)
- Formulation guides on humectants in personal care
This article is published for industrial and technical reference by PolyblueChem. Optimize levels by formulation testing.
PolyblueChem supplies hydroxyethyl urea (CAS 1320-51-0) in cosmetic grade with COA and MSDS. See our HEU guide. Contact us for specifications and quotations.